It’s nice to know that after years of exploring the world of food and drink, a product can still surprise me. Recently I was invited down to one of a series of dinners sponsored by Yeni Raki, Turkey’s number 1 raki brand. You’d be forgiven for asking what raki was. Prior to this dinner my sole experience with this spirit was having it forced down my neck on holiday by Turkish waiters at the end of a meal. Raki is a spirit made from distilled grapes flavoured with aniseed. In its bottled form it is clear but when drunk water is added, prompting a curious transformation that renders the liquid a milky colour and texture, attracting the name of ‘Lion’s Milk’.
The spirit has been made in Turkey for over 500 years and forms an important part of Turkish culture. The Ottoman’s served it alongside mezze dishes, developing the tradition of the ‘raki table’. At the raki table people would come together to share food, drink, conversation and time – for indeed, one never rushed their raki. Philosophers of the past originally named the raki table the ‘hemdem table’, translated as ‘cohesion through sharing’; a concept which the brand are looking to revive through holding tasting dinners at some of London’s premier restaurants paired with, of course, plenty of free flowing Yeni Raki.
I headed down to the one at Bonnie Gull, a well-renowned seafood restaurant in Exmouth Market. Besides my plus one, I didn’t know anyone so, along with a building appetite there was a small touch of trepidation. The group turned out to be great though with some super interesting characters from all walks of life (from fashion photography to drinks events management!) contributing to the chatter.
The chatter, I’ll admit, was helped along by the presence of no less than 4 bottles of Yeni Raki plonked in the middle and available for free pouring. Our host explained that there was to be no format to the evening, we were just to sit back, relax and enjoy the food and raki, to see what happened and just go with it.
So, with glasses full of milky raki we approached the food. The menu was typical Bonnie Gull: fresh, 100% British classics. We began with Inverawe smoked salmon on the most unbelievable blinis I’ve literally ever had, and Porthilly and Carlingford rock oysters. Next up, a most ‘British’ mezze of seafood dishes starting with St Austell Bay mussels escabeche, followed by toasted sourdough with a salty and smooth butter of anchovies and mackerel pate. What else? Deep fried squid with jalapeno mayonnaise, wonderful potatoes with Lincolnshire Poacher and one of the nicer fish pies I have tried, packed with a whole rostra of fish and seafood. My favourite dish of the night came in the form of these delightful little croquettes stuffed with brown shrimp and Dorset crab. These burst in the mouth with oozing streams of buttery, rich seafood and were quite fantastic. The fish and chips naturally were also excellent, possessing the perfect crisp batter.
The desserts could have been more special. The brownie didn’t reach the heights of the fish courses, although it was served with a salted caramel cream which really did tickle my proverbial pickle. The classic custard tart with lashings of nutmeg was a nice touch but the final dessert was an ice-cream cone filled with Jersey soft serve, popping candy and desiccated raspberry. All well and good but…to share between two? Who wants to lick the same ice-cream at a communal dinner, even after half a bottle of raki?
What about the raki? I came fully expecting to be unmoved by it, but left with a surprising affinity with this peculiar spirit. It drinks incredibly easily and the transformation when water is added is really very cool. It worked well with the food; it is light enough to compliment seafood, and aniseed is always a winner alongside fish. I like the ethos behind Yeni Raki too; the emphasis on conviviality, companionship and taking one’s time to fully relax, unrushed, into a dining experience. Raki? Consider me a convert.
http://www.yenirakiglobal.com/
http://www.bonniegullseafoodshack.com/
55-57 Exmouth Market, London EC1R 4QL
020 3122 0047
