Cider’s not been something I’ve considered much. I pick it up occasionally in the summer to sip cursorily and disregard until the sun’s back out. I’ve certainly never considered it in the same league as wine or even beer, nor as something possessing a myriad of forms. However, this outlook was recently adjusted, and not inconsiderably, at an event hosted by Geronimo Inns. At their Fentiman Arms gastro pub, Oval, they paired 10 courses of food with some extraordinary cyders by Aspall, with the aim of educating attendees about cyder’s true diversity and range.
| The evening began with canapés on the terrace. The sun was going down, Geronimo had somehow wrangled getting Matthew Hoggard, MBE awarded Yorkshire cricket player, along and conversation was pleasantly Northern. I complimented one of our hosts on the champagne going round, only to be met sceptically: ‘Lucy, that is cyder’. I was gobsmacked. Not only was Aspall’s Chevallier Cuvee served from a champagne bottle, but its dry, straw notes with flower and apple were similar to a more rounded cava. At 11% packed as hefty a punch. I’d known nothing like it – simply and utterly delicious. |  |
It was with happy anticipation therefore that I next retired to one of the Fentiman’s private dining rooms, to begin the rest of our tasting menu. First up, goats curd with candied beetroot that left honey sweetness on your lips, washed away by an amber Aspall Temple Moon. Next, my favourite food course of the evening – smoked eel with a gelatinous chunk of real bacon and pea shoots, paired with a fresh, complex draught. Further courses passed in flurries of ham hock, John Dory and lamb rack, each accompanied with a new discovery from Aspall. I loved an Imperial Vintage No.285 with a golden colour, caramel richness from added muscovado sugar and plenty of tannin (because apparently cyder has tannin too!). Aspall brought a fruitier tone to the evening in their summery Isabel’s Berry number, served with a plum poached with hints of fennel and vanilla ice cream. It even paired well with cheese.
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The brand is still family run down in Suffolk on the original estate and their ever prevalent attention to tradition and techniques is shown in the names of the Aspall products; each cyder is named after a family member, with the bottles sporting their portraits. A nice touch of familiarity to accompany an exceedingly nice tipple.
In summary, getting to know the Aspall products was a game changer for me and I can’t wait to delve further into this straw-coloured world of fermented apple. Not only this but I discovered a jolly nice pub that I’m already scheduled to return to. Keep your eyes peeled and your glasses full, readers.
www.geronimo-inns.co.uk/london-the-fentiman-arms
www.aspall.co.uk/
64 Fentiman Rd, London SW8 1LA
020 7793 9796
In summary, getting to know the Aspall products was a game changer for me and I can’t wait to delve further into this straw-coloured world of fermented apple. Not only this but I discovered a jolly nice pub that I’m already scheduled to return to. Keep your eyes peeled and your glasses full, readers.
www.geronimo-inns.co.uk/london-the-fentiman-arms
www.aspall.co.uk/
64 Fentiman Rd, London SW8 1LA
020 7793 9796
