In a city which sees literally hundreds of restaurants open in any given year, Summer 2013 has seen an exciting new arrival to its culinary rostra. Or is it new? Boulestin by Joel Kissin, which opened last Friday, takes its inspiration from a previous acclaimed Boulestin that reigned in Covent Garden until 1994. This original restaurant was owned by legendary chef Marcel Boulestin, famous for bringing French cooking to the English masses in the early 1900s.
With such a culinary heritage to live up to, Boulestin, St James Street has both big boots to fill and a big belly, which I happily supplied at its Sunday launch.
With such a culinary heritage to live up to, Boulestin, St James Street has both big boots to fill and a big belly, which I happily supplied at its Sunday launch.
 | We nibbled on excellent canapés d’anchois (anchovies on little toasts) and great bread while browsing the sizable menu made up of French classics, helpfully broken down into categories such as savouries, soups, eggs and offal. It read like a dream; oeuf en Gelée, calves liver, poussin, soufflés. Achingly, achingly classic, joyfully so and I ordered extensively. |
Boulestin started outstandingly with a starter of Oeuf en Meurette, a red wine poached egg with lardons, mushroom and an oozingly delicious red wine jus soaked crostini. One of the best meurettes I’ve tried. A tender squid grilled with haricot beans and peppers also pleased, alongside decent enough scallops with capers and tomatoes.
 Scallops |  Oeuf en Meurette |  Grilled Squid |
Mains included a deep, tasty boudin noir with apple and pomme purée, and roast pigeon, girolles, lardons and kale. Both tasty, though both (plus the starters) needing salt. Desserts, like the scallops, were good enough with the exception of a truly first rate sauternes custard, served with Armagnac prunes. This melted almost dirtily with a creamy centre of warm, alcoholic, egg-rich goodness. There was more than a modicum of groaning involved in eating it.
 Boudin Noir |  Roast Pigeon |
 Lemon Tart |  Sauternes Custard |  Apple Tart |
In general the food was good and there were two exceptional dishes – the egg and the custard. For me however, although most of the menu is priced okay, some dish prices punched above their weight. Our pheasant cost £26, which you’d expect to pay at somewhere with a star but elsewhere….probably not. Sure, it’s got a big name and, sure, we’re in London but really? Luckily, until Wednesday 4th September food at Boulestin is 50% off and so I wasn’t too stung, but I think when I return (for I will probably return) I’ll choose more carefully from the menu. But really, who wants to do that when going out for dinner at a bistro?
Boulestin, London – 50% Until Wednesday 4th September for its previews.
Rating: 7.5/10
5 St James’s Street London SW1A 1EF
+44 20 7930 2030
http://www.boulestin.com
Boulestin, London – 50% Until Wednesday 4th September for its previews.
Rating: 7.5/10
5 St James’s Street London SW1A 1EF
+44 20 7930 2030
http://www.boulestin.com
