I talk a lot in this blog about how fabulous British produce is. I won’t rehash my old points but to reiterate that gone are the days we cowered in the shadow of our French neighbours. Now we stand tall, proudly displaying our cheddars, fabulous beef and British wines. They compete with the finest produce the world has to offer – in the last few years alone both British sparkling wine and beer have won blind taste testing global competitions.
All this considered, I love it when I see a menu glorifying our wonderful nation’s ingredients and the new Boyd’s Grill and Wine Bar is one such place. It’s launch epitomised this: alongside sampling its menu and drinks, they’d set up a ‘farmers market’ of their suppliers to showcase their wares!
First of all: the site. The place dates back to 1887 when the grand Hotel Victoria was built on Northumberland Avenue, by the Strand and Trafalgar Square. The restaurant was the original hotel coffee room, and many of the original features exist today, although revitalised from 2009 by its new leaseholder, and restaurant namesake, Charles Boyd. It is the definition of ornate: walls made from 15 kinds of marble, and onyx, with sparkling chandeliers and a bronze bar.
Most importantly, the food. It’s fab. I tried a host of dishes from the menu and was delighted. From the small plates, a stand out dish was a mousse of white cheese made in Brockley, South London, with tomato salsa and sour dough bread. It’s a fabulous cheese, soft and salty, and set off perfectly with the tomato.
Another pleasing dish came with salmon, cured with English Sipsmith gin, alongside a buttermilk sorbet and dill. Whilst I’m not sold on sorbet with salmon, the flavours were good – swap it for a buttermilk mousse and I’m in.
The highlight of my evening came in their Tomahawk monster steak of Cornish beef (photographed at the top) – this gigantic slab of meet was deeply flavoured, with a intense, beefy crust, and came with a well executed bernaise sauce. They have a whole host of different beefs on the menu, including Wagyu from Sussex and Water Buffalo from Hampshire. Swanky stuff. I also spied Hogget on the menu – a lamb over 3 months old, on it’s way to being a sheep – which I loved. It’s totally underused and has amazing flavour.
On the marine side, I tried goujons of white fish, calamari and prawn in beer batter with a somewhat inspired curried hollandaise. The menu proudly displays that all fish is from the North or Irish Sea, English Channel or British rivers, all on 1 or 2 on the MSC sustainability chart.
Add to this sterling menu, a wine list featuring the best of British and service as smooth as the marble floors, and you have yourself a cracking new restaurant. Next time you’re dodging pigeons at Trafalgar Square, stop off and pay a visit – it’s so British it’s practically your patriotic duty.
www.boydsgrillandwinebar.co.uk
8 Northumberland Ave, London WC2N 5BY
020 7808 3344
