Quiz time, readers. Who can tell me anything about South African food? Can anyone name me a dish? South African people, put your hands down. Nobody else? Not entirely unexpected. Until a few weeks ago I was in the same boat. I suspected there was meat involved, mostly from the South African blokes I’ve come across (and blokes is definitely the best word here), but would have been hard pressed to expand more. Then I heard about a new opening in Soho, bringing traditional Durban ‘workers’ food to London, Bunnychow, and went down to find out more.
The name is drawn from the dish itself: the Bunny Chow. This meal began in Durban in the 1940s as a portable lunch for migrant Indian plantation workers. I am told that since the more traditional Indian meal of roti and beans tended to fall apart too easy, they took little loaves of bread, filled them with curry and topped them with the bread lid, providing a portable and cheap meal. In more modern times this has become a popular street food item in South Africa and was introduced to London in 2013. Crusty bread and curry or spicy stew: a winner, right? Right.
The name is drawn from the dish itself: the Bunny Chow. This meal began in Durban in the 1940s as a portable lunch for migrant Indian plantation workers. I am told that since the more traditional Indian meal of roti and beans tended to fall apart too easy, they took little loaves of bread, filled them with curry and topped them with the bread lid, providing a portable and cheap meal. In more modern times this has become a popular street food item in South Africa and was introduced to London in 2013. Crusty bread and curry or spicy stew: a winner, right? Right.
Soho’s Bunnychow offers 5 different ‘Bunny’ fillings in a choice of white, wholemeal, brioche or gluten free breads – each coming in at a bare fiver! The portions are huge too, making this a ridiculous steal of a bargain. I tried the Chakalaka Bunny; spicy chicken and tomato topped with raita, mango chutney and crisp shards of poppadum, in a brioche bun. The chicken was super moist and the sauce packs a good chilli hit, cooled down by creamy raita. The brioche bun is pretty special too but then again, anything laden with that much butter is always going to be good. The Durban Bunny of slow cooked mutton was also excellent. I love mutton and it should be on far more menus.
Bunnychow pay homage to their new UK home in a toast to the British fry up in their Full English Bunny; a loaf filled with sausage, home cured bacon, mushroom, bobotie spiced beans, tomato, homemade black pudding and fried egg. Eating it, I almost wished I was hungover so I could appreciate it at what will undoubtedly be its best.
Everything was fun to eat. You start by scooping out the stew and end by tearing apart the soggy, sauce rich bread.
Everything was fun to eat. You start by scooping out the stew and end by tearing apart the soggy, sauce rich bread.
I also enjoyed the sides; ‘Monkey Gland’ chicken wings (Monkey Gland referring to a popular South African sauce) were succulent and ‘Borecole’, stir fried kale, provided a nice iron punch to the meal. Again, these are priced incredibly reasonably at a pound each! Madness.
Bunnychow are also offering a jazzy little bottle cocktail menu of fresh fruit juice infusions which can be blended with spirits for only £4! I tried the inventive sounding Green Mamba of peppermint, earl grey tea and gin and the Invictus; a flu banishing punch of ginger, lemon, honey and spiced rum.
Bunnychow are also offering a jazzy little bottle cocktail menu of fresh fruit juice infusions which can be blended with spirits for only £4! I tried the inventive sounding Green Mamba of peppermint, earl grey tea and gin and the Invictus; a flu banishing punch of ginger, lemon, honey and spiced rum.
I liked Bunnychow. I like the story, the vibe and most importantly the food. I also appreciated the pricing. It would have felt untrue to its ‘peasant’ roots if they had come in and priced it higher, although the London market would have stood paying more like £8-9 for each Bunny. Keep your eyes on this place. Even better, visit.
7/10
74 Wardour Street, London, W1F 0TE
www.bunnychow.com
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