Caribbean food has never been the one to fill me with tremendous enthusiasm. My experiences have been limited to some rather horrid saltfish cakes thrust upon me by a university friend in some ham fisted hang up from her gap year, and the odd jerk-spiced creation that boys I’ve dated have dished up from a packet. It’s not been a wonderful relationship.
So when I was invited down to Cottons Rhum Shack in Camden to try their food it was with a spirit of adventure rather than optimism that I entered their restaurant.
So when I was invited down to Cottons Rhum Shack in Camden to try their food it was with a spirit of adventure rather than optimism that I entered their restaurant.
We began with drinks; rum punches, of course. They have over 300 different rums on site (crazy) and it’s very much their speciality. The punches were delicious, made with Wray and Nephew overproof rum (deadly stuff at 63%), orange, guava, pineapple and grenadine. The rest of the cocktail list is extensive and standardly priced at £8.50, although there’s a daily happy hour offering £5 ones.
The site is surprising. The outside looks like nothing; all ramshackle wood fronting and various Caribbean flags, and the front bar area continues this theme with literally hundreds of rum bottles balancing haphazardly. However, venture downstairs and a sleek, light and sizable restaurant is revealed, laid out in bistro style and quite at odds with the island vibe upstairs. The ambience was cool too. Very chilled out and with friendly service. There was a chap playing live guitar when we were there, and I’m told it can get quite lively on weekend evenings.
We began with drinks; rum punches, of course. They have over 300 different rums on site (crazy) and it’s very much their speciality. The punches were delicious, made with Wray and Nephew overproof rum (deadly stuff at 63%), orange, guava, pineapple and grenadine. The rest of the cocktail list is extensive and standardly priced at £8.50, although there’s a daily happy hour offering £5 ones.
Next, to the food. The menu is relatively large and priced, with starters around £6.75 and mains at £14.50. There’s a glossary at the back for those Caribbean food virgins like me who don’t know their Ackee (a fruit commonly served with saltfish) from their Callalloo (a spinach like vegetable).
Food began with some complimentary bread – something which I don’t normally feel inspired to write about but am with this. It was delicious – soft and sweeter than normal, served with this delicious spiced dipping sauce of (I think) roasted peppers, cayenne and chilli.
Food began with some complimentary bread – something which I don’t normally feel inspired to write about but am with this. It was delicious – soft and sweeter than normal, served with this delicious spiced dipping sauce of (I think) roasted peppers, cayenne and chilli.
Meat Pies with Salsa!
Starters up; a cute little plate of meat pies, a vegetable salsa and pepper sauce. These were yummy; whilst the pastry was perhaps a little thick, it was also laden with butter and the meat filling inside was well spiced. I also tried their Island Mezze Platter of salt cod fritters, chokra, creole shrimps, aubergine caviar and Trinidadian roti. This is an absolute bargain at £6.75 and lets you try tonnes of little dishes, always a winner in my book. The aubergine caviar was delicious – smoky and smooth –, the roti were buttery and hot and even the salt cod fritters were tasty.
Mains; the most delicious baby spatchcock chicken, only days old and marinated so that it was extra moist, slow roasted in pimiento and spices and served with savoy cabbage, jerk sauce and rice and peas. This was my highlight of the entire meal and the dish that would bring me back to Cottons.
I also tried their Mixed Jerk Meat Grill Platter of jerked pork ribs, chicken, pork kofta, chicken wings, rice and peas, jerk sauce and fried plantain. This was also good (although nothing is as good as that spatchcock chicken!!) and I liked the fried plantain a lot – soft and sweet, though saltier than fried banana.
I also tried their Mixed Jerk Meat Grill Platter of jerked pork ribs, chicken, pork kofta, chicken wings, rice and peas, jerk sauce and fried plantain. This was also good (although nothing is as good as that spatchcock chicken!!) and I liked the fried plantain a lot – soft and sweet, though saltier than fried banana.
Mixed grill with THAT spatchcock in the background
Desserts brought me chocolate tart with raspberry puree and poached pear and a pineapple and apple crumble with rum custard. These were more swings and roundabouts than the other courses. The chocolate tart’s pastry was a little thick, but came with the most wonderful poached pearst that were utterly moreish and could have taken centre stage. Likewise, I didn’t love the crumble itself but the rum custard that came on the side was to die for. To the utter horror of my dining companion, I ate the whole jug with a spoon.
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To summarise, I found Cotton’s surprisingly good on multiple levels. Most significantly, the food is great and the lists of rums and cocktails impressive. Next time I’m in Camden I’ll certainly be back…for a cheeky rum and a jam, if not for that wonderful, droolingly awesome spatchcock.
8/10
http://cottons-restaurant.co.uk/
55 Chalk Farm Road
London NW1 8AN
