In the eyes of many, Ireland is about as synonymous with food as the English are. Unfortunately, from food pasts of pineapple and cheese sticks or egg and chips, both of our nations have not earned the best reputation for gastronomy. However, what many forget is that our fair isles were invaded centuries over for one thing – land. Both England and Ireland had big fat targets on their backs to our neighbouring Europeans from the fertility of our lands. Even today, Ireland has the most nutrient rich land in the whole of Europe. The Emerald Isle has the perfect foundation for growing the finest produce, and it does. During a mid-week stay in Dublin, I went to some seriously good restaurants and sampled some fine produce from their artisan delis, patisseries and chocolatiers.
Read my guide to some of the best spots to eat!
Dinner
The Green Hen
Slap bang central, walking through the doors of this French bistro is like walking into a busy Parisian restaurant. The place is jam packed and lively. They cure their own house salmon here and it is delightful; flavours of orange, lemon and dill. The chicken liver parfait (a true litmus test of a restaurant’s worth) was sublimely rich. A huge array of specials accompany the strong menu made choosing a tad tricky. Add to this an excellent wine menu and some of the friendliest staff I’ve had, and this place sticks in my mind as one I can’t wait to return to.
If you’re one of the lucky ones – you may get a Red Hen secret 'send off', I’ll say no more…
The Pig’s Ear
Over the road from Trinity college sits the Pig’s Ear. It's a dimly lit room with solid wood floors evoking old world romanticism and does refined Irish food well. Their beef cheek is served with the BEST chips around, done with bone marrow, and falls apart with the lightest touch of the fork. I still tremble at the memory of this huge slab of meat. They too have an excellent wine menu and have monthly spotlights on three wines, keeping things fresh. This place is one for a special occasion.
L. Mulligan’s Grocer
Both name and appearance of this out of town spot are deceiving. No it is not a greengrocer and no it is not an olde worlde pub (as it looks from the outside). Inside the wood panelling and furnishings are homely and comforting and hearty fare such as black putting, smoked trout pate and boar burger is paired with matching beers. Great service and food make this unusual pub one of my top picks.
Drury’s buildings
Modern, fresh and cool. This place, which is slap bang in Dublin’s “cool quarter” offers exquisite modern Italian food in casually glamorous surroundings. Wonderfully cooked fresh fish and even sucking pig vamp up the already intriguing pasta menu. A solid eatery with pleasant and knowledgeable staff.
Lunch and Cafés
Dolce Sicily
Just on a street running parallel to Grafton Street, this little slice of Sicily is fabulous for breakfast or lunch. Fantastic coffee, freshly made paninis and sandwiches, and best of all – outstanding Sicilian canolis. This place can’t be beat for a refuel as you take a time out from shopping. The owners are all Sicilian and it’s great to just sit in this space and hear them talk in Italian.
The Good Food Store
Serving the best sausage rolls (must get here before 11am as they sell out like the proverbial hot cake), this deli come cafe is well worth a stop for lunch. The huge rainbow colored salads and jam packed sandwiches at the counter all look mouthwatering. They also sell some great produce for your larder at home.
Klaw
Even if there is a queue outside, please don't let that deter you. This cute little beach shack in the middle of Temple Bar is awesome. The serve fresh oyster, lobster and a whole blackboard of haul from the Irish sea. The staff here are fantastic and walking in feels like I am amongst friends.
Shops and Delis
Sheridan’s Cheesemongers
Offering up interesting and somewhat exotic (seaweed) cheeses, this place is a must go on any cheese lover’s trail through Dublin. Huge wheels of cheese surround you, with knowledgeable staff who are happy to let you sample. This great place is committed to sourcing unusual cheeses but also has an interest in who its producers are; many of them are small families from Ireland and beyond. They even do wedding cheese cakes, and yes…that is tiers of wheels of cheese. I know where I’m getting mine when the wedding bells ring.
Cocoa Atelier
With a huge offering of some sumptuous chocolates, this two floor chocolaterie is a must on any chocoholic’s list. Offering handmade individual, chocolate gifts, this place is a great spot to pick up some delicious presents and stocking fillers. It also has one of the best light fixtures I have ever seen….you'll see what I mean.
Le Petit Parisien
Stepping inside is like stepping into a glamorous café in Paris. Offering some of the best macaroons I’ve ever had and excellent traditional cake and pastries, this place is ALWAYS busy. Difficult to get a seat but worth the wait. For those who hate queuing, you can also take away and enjoy at home.
Many of the places listed above were shown to me by the wonderful Eveleen Coyle who runs Fab Food trails in Dublin. A wonderful lady who knows all the best spots in town. She and her team of guide run excellent food tours of the city. Find out more about her tours here.
Written by Erin Goodall, FoodGoblin Northern Correspondent
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