Day 2 began with Fife’s famous sunshine beaming through the heavy antique curtains of Cambo Estate and onto the face of a slightly hung over food blogger. The Peat Inn had beaten me but if anything was going to get me out of bed it was going to be the promise of a hearty Scottish breakfast and the view of the ocean and Cambo gardens from my window.
Thoroughly roused by said Scottish breakfast (and a very strange, not undelicious- thing called a ‘tattie scone’), we waved goodbye to Cambo Estate and the Kingsbarns Distillery and it was off into the wilds of Fife for Day 2 of our foodie mini break. Where else to shake off a night’s excess but out on the stormy North Sea on a small(ish) rib boat? Our destination was the Isle of May, a rocky outcrop off the coast of Fife and Natural Heritage Nature Reserve, attracting thousands of tourists annually for its prolific population of puffins, sea birds and seals!
Normally the island is a 45 minute ferry ride from the fishing town of Anstruther, however we managed to secure the services of the Isle of May Boat Trips company, which operates a high speed rib boat and gets you there in more like 20. The ride itself was quite the thrill. On arrival at the dockside, the skipper thrust some rubber overalls at me and an ominous warning that ‘it was about to get wild’. Those words were proved true as we bounced over the waves at high speed, salty spray firing backwards. Ladies…waterproof mascara.
As we neared the island and slowed its appeal became clear. Seabirds, surprised by our arrival, fled from their rocky perches and swooped down over the sea and seals nodded from their basking spots. With our boat guide pointing out each species and explaining the landscape’s folklore we toured the coast line, stopping to peek into scenic alcoves and to disembark at the island’s one pier. Our guide led us through the visitors centre and into the heart of the island where hundreds of nesting puffins appeared. I was most displeased to discover that these quaint little creatures are, amongst other things, intensely camera shy and fled my approach, preferring to hurl themselves off the cliffs and into the sea than pose for my snaps.
A small community of scientists live on this tiny island looking after the birds (undoubtedly protecting them from people like me who try to chase and eat them) and studying them. As barren as the isle is, it certainly possesses its own bleak kind of beauty. I can see how that life would appeal to some. As for myself, my appetite beckoned and I was ready to hop back on our rock and rolling rib and head to our next spot: lunch.
With the prospect of this lunch on my mind, the return journey to Anstruther passed in a flurry. We were going to the famous Anstruther Fish Bar, winner of the Best Fish and Chip Shop in the UK (2008/2009) and one of Gary Rhodes’ Local Food Heroes. With wobbly sea legs and a very sodden barnet, I staggered across the harbour and into the Fish Bar.
The Anstruther Fish Bar is an absolute institution of Fife. Tourists come from as far as Edinburgh to get their fish and chips and in the summer you’ll find queues wrapping around the block. The fish is sourced daily straight from 2 dedicated fishing boats – so it couldn’t really be fresher – and a chalk board proudly displays which boat your fish is from!
I wasn’t there to mess around and went for the classic haddock and chips, with a side of mushy peas, buttered bread and, in true Yorkshire style, a cup of tea.
You’ll be hard pressed to find better fish and chips. It is staggering. The fish was perfectly cooked, moist and with thick, succulent flakes coated in the crispest batter, so light it could almost have been tempura. The chips were, quite frankly, banging. You know a great chip when it tastes so achingly of pure, sweet potato that you can’t bear to put sauce on it. For a mayonnaise fiend such as I, this is rare.
After this most dashing of lunches it was back on the road to…..eat more, of course! First stop; the St Andrews Farmhouse Cheese Company, a cheese making farm overlooking Anstruther where farmer’s wife Jane Stewart produces a range of wonderful local cheeses from the milk produced in her husband’s dairy. I was last here 5 years ago when I was at University and it was a joy to see how this business has grown. Their signature cheese is the Anster; a white, slightly tart and chalky cheese made from unpasteurised milk set with a natural rennet. Jane has also gone on to produce several more cheeses including a Red Anster with garlic and chives and a cheddar style Farmhouse Cheese. The farm itself is totally charming – it has a popular café and farm shop with views over the rolling green farmland and a viewing window into Jane’s cheese kitchen!
Next up, the Pittenweem Chocolate Company and Cocoa Tree Café, set in the tremendously picturesque village of Pittenweem. When wandering through the winding streets of this little Scottish village the last thing you expect to stumble upon is a high end chocolatier. But indeed, this exists, founded by Sophie Latinis. It’s like the film ‘Chocolat’!
The shop sells a range of exquisite chocolates created either in their chocolate kitchen upstairs or sourced from interesting world producers. Their single malt whisky chocolates were especially good; bursting with carefully chosen whisky, matched to its chocolate shell. I also enjoyed a range of flavoured chocolate 'shards', including a pink Himalayan salt and caramel one which was great.
The café off the back serves Cocoa Tree’s trademark ‘hot chocolates’ alongside savoury dishes, some even containing cocoa – e.g. their trademark chilli with cocoa! These are hot chocolates like no other. We tried their Rich Milk Chocolate and intense dark chocolate Caliente brew which was married with chilli; both exceptional hot chocolates. I even got to try an interesting chocolate tea which was surprisingly refreshing.
The Rufflets Country House Hotel stands on the outskirts of St Andrews, a 20 minute walk along the scenic Lade Braes pathway or a 4 minute taxi drive. This moderately sized country hotel houses 24 rooms and 3 self-catered lodges which are perfect for golfers or larger parties. The hotel is luxurious and traditionally styled, with brushes of contemporary here and there. The rear is covered with ivy and 10 acres of green gardens stretch out from it, leading down to a little river and vegetable garden where produce is grown for the kitchen. Simply put, it is lovely. Hardly surprising that it is one of St Andrews’ premier wedding destinations.
Like the other stops on our trip, The Rufflets is foodie paradise. Head Chef Grant MacNicol has put together a modern Scottish dining menu using local produce from the area and has 2 AA rosettes.
Yet the Rufflets was not to be our dining destination that evening. In what was to be our first actual visit into the town itself, we were heading to one of St Andrew’s most exciting fine dining restaurants set in the shell of the town’s old post office, The Adamson. Not only is this the holder of 2 AA rosettes but has also been the work place of 2013 MasterChef finalist, Scott Davies.
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Dinner was similarly impressive. I began with the Scottish quail; a crispy leg and sautéed breast, alongside deep fried quail’s egg and a moreish broth of soya tea and stock. The restaurant have a Josper grill and we took full advantage of this for the mains; ribeye on the bone to share and a chateaubriand, served with béarnaise, baby cos salad with blue cheese, anchovies and pancetta. The beef melted away in that wonderful, fat-rich, juicy way that only great quality beef can. Desserts got exciting. A salted caramel brulee bore no resemblance to its namesake, arriving deconstructed and with an apple sorbet, bitter aerated and mousse chocolate and a caramel inside. Extraordinary. Simpler but equally as delicious was their rum and raisin ice cream, alongside a portion of pedro ximenez sherry. I liked this dinner a lot. The restaurant is really solid and brings some real style and to fine dining in St Andrews.
Day 2 had brought me exceptional landscapes, the best fish and chips in the UK, artisan cheese, chocolate, another evening of fine dining and even a little endangered wildlife on the side….all within a 10 mile radius in Fife. This is a strange county but I sure could get used to it. Day 3 to go, the surface barely scratched and my sights were finally set on St Andrews town itself…
I am so grateful for your article.