London is full of weird and wonderful things to do. I’ve dined dressed in a hazard suite at a Nuclear themed dinner party, been lost in a maze at an Alice in Wonderland themed bar and sipped cognac at the home of the French Ambassador to the UK, to name but three. Recently I added to this list of oddities with a day of food hopping around some of the North West’s best restaurants, watered by matching champagnes and transported in an old style red London bus. The name of this strange event? The Champagne Laurent-Perrier Gourmet Odyssey.
This event happens annually as part of the London Restaurant Festival and I was lucky enough to get a place on this year’s North London voyage. The idea is pretty simple: you hop on board and are transported to 4 different top notch restaurants and are served a different course at each, paired with one of LP’s champagnes. There are various voyages in different London areas, each with different combinations of restaurants. It’s not cheap at circa. £125, but you get a lot of food and, in reality, the champagne is flowing – as a special occasion, it’s worth it.
Our itinerary hosted a powerhouse quartet of North London restaurants – none of which I’d managed to visit at the time making the day even more exciting.
First up:
Plum and Spilt Milk at the Great Northern Hotel in Kings Cross for a champagne reception and canapés. This has been on my brunch radar for about a year now but for whatever reason (absolutely not hangover related) the 40 minute trawl up the Northern Line on a Sunday morning hasn’t materialised yet. Defamatory speculation asides, I was super psyched to visit and for good reason. The space is beautiful with rich, bright furnishings, industrial lighting and mountains of Laurent-Perrier lying about, looking all dewy and iced – naughty. Although my brunch aspirations with this restaurant were once again foiled, the canapés were excellent, including these lovely little braised beef bonbos, and were served with oodles of lovely
LP Brut.
Next we were ushered onto one of those iconic red buses ad chauffeured to our
starter destination:
Grain Store in Granary Square. Grain Store is famous for its vegetable orientated (not vegetarian) food. Chef Bruno Loubet puts the spotlight firmly on our herbaceous friends, demoting meat to the sideline and has been widely applauded for his results. Unsurprisingly, it’s another one that’s been on the ist for yonks. Here we moved to the Laurent-Perrier Ultra Brut which was always going to be my favourite; I love a super dry champagne. This was served with the airiest whipped celeriac tart with truffle shavings, the pastry shell of which was literally almost as thin as filo. Extraordinary.
Back onto the bus and onto the main course: the
Quality Chop House near Exmouth Market. If you were going to pick a restaurant based on description alone, you’d pick this for me. A meat lover’s heaven, this restaurant with adjoining butcher’s shop has been around since 1869 serving classic, customarily meaty fare to North London folk. Inside it’s super oldy woldy, with high backed wooden booths, a monochrome tiled floor and mosaic entranceway. Here they served me my favourite course of the whole day, washed down with a rich
Laurent-Perrier Vintage; lamb leg, pink, and slow cooked shoulder, artichoke, braised and almost bitter chicory, with an anchovy crumb. Everything on here was extraordinary, cooked on point and tasting intensely of themselves. From punchy lamb jus, to salty anchovy crumb, every bite told me I’d be back for the full menu within a month.
Finally, the dessert stop! Up the road to
Trullo we bused. Trullo is a neighbourhood Italian place in Islington. Only in Islington can I call it a ‘neighbourhood Italian’; anywhere else it would be considered entirely cutting edge, but at heart, in its food, that’s what it really is. They served us a rustic looking, elegant tasting baked pear, stuffed with hazelnuts and mascapone, served with
Laurent-Perrier rose. As a combination, this is hard to beat. Citrus, light summer fruits and rose, with juicy pear and cream? Load me up.
At this stage after multiple platters of rich food and, probably at least a bottle of champagne, I was almost ready for an afternoon nap or at the very least a bracing walk and espresso, and so made my goodbyes. The rest of our group stayed on to natter and indeed, things were getting lively with one party of ladies performing party tricks! This was actually one of my favourite elements of the Gourmet Odyssey; with all the venue changes, unavoidably you ended up sitting with different people each time and got to meet a whole host of characters along the way! It’s the reason I love supper clubs (pop up restaurants in people’s private homes) and, if I’m honest, was a huge draw of the event in the first place. You’re guaranteed some good conversation.