A go to little French bistro is as beloved and comfortable as a little black dress. But finding a beloved and comfortable little French bistro is as difficult as finding those killer black heels that never scuff and don’t ruin your feet. It should be warm, with an ambience to make you sigh relief, considerately priced so to encourage frequent returns and the food…ahh, well the food should be as nourishing and moreish as a steaming bowl of mother’s beef stew in December (or should I say boeuf bourguignon. If found, one should cling to this elusive animal – they’re as rare as gems.
Since coming to London I have discovered only two. One in South London that I’ll reveal in due course (I’m holding onto it jealously at the moment), but another has won such acclamation already that it would be redundant to keep it under wraps any longer. Le Garrick in Covent Garden.
This little family run occupies a busy corner on Garrick Street (naturally), a bustling area belying the calm, cosiness to be found within its doors. On entry it appears tiny, with barely room for 4 tables, but down some winding stairs a larger space is revealed with lots of nooks set into the walls, candle lit and shady with a sort of Paris 1920s vibe. Every table feels tremendously private – if I was wanting a romantic meal for 2, perhaps with someone I shouldn’t be with (!), this is where I’d pick!
Onto the food. I was reviewing so I chose benchmark dishes – things that a French restaurant needs to excel at – alongside some recommendations by the waitress. First up, what else but l’escargot. These were plump and juicy, scented with garlic and parsley and served alongside a basket of really good French stick. If I had to poke holes I’d say there wasn’t quite enough garlic butter. I like to pluck my snail out of a veritable bucket of melted butter and then use the bread to soak it all up. Spectacular however was the Basque style calamari with coriander, chilli and ginger (photo at the top of this blog). The rings were perfectly tender and juice, melting away on the merest bite. THESE were indeed drenched in the perfect amount of garlic, spiced and pungent butter, making dipping my bread an utter delight.
I also tried the foie gras with pear chutney and brioche. It was exactly as it should be; luxurious and smooth, punctuated with sweet pear and buttery brioche. A better combination is hard to come by.
Next came a perfectly cooked onglet steak with crisp frites and a properly done peppercorn sauce. The frites here were really excellent. This will sound bizarre but…they tasted of potato. So many chips just taste of salt and fat, but here the lovely, creamy flavour pulled through. I also tried the duck breast with cherry sauce and celeriac mash. The duck was cooked a delicate pink and the sauce was deep and rich, without too much sweetness 
With dessert my greed took over. I ordered both the Cafe Gourmand, a tasting board of several desserts, and the cheese board. It would have been rude not to. The cheese was predictably excellent – it would have ruined my entire experience if it hadn’t been – and included one of my favourite ever cheeses: the magnificent Brillat-Savarin, triple-cream. A triple cream cheese is one containing over 75% butterfat and they’re insane.
The drinks offerings are equally good. We had paired wines with each course including a lovely sweet Monbazillac wine with the foie gras which worked very well.
Le Garrick is a gem of a French bistro, a hide away from hectic central London and a cosy nook to capture any evening in. I’m very happy I found it and its holy trinity of taste, ambience and affordability. Le Garrick, if you’re listening, keep your champagne on ice and your fondue on simmer…you’ll be seeing me regularly.
8/10
www.legarrick.co.uk
10-12 Garrick St, London WC2E 9BH
020 7240 7649
