It’s autumn and my soul is longing for Italy. It’s the time of year that me and my mum make our annual pilgrimage to Rome. As a former Classics student and, patently, food fanatic, Italy holds a special place in my heart. Although my feet can’t lead me to these bella bella lands this year, one Sunday they did bring me to a spot not too far away: Li Veli in Covent Garden.
Li Veli is a Pugliese wine bar and bistro serving traditional Southern Italian fare alongside wine grown on the company’s very own vineyards. Back in Italy, two families – the Falvo and Melpignano’s – operate a winery and hotel on the Puglia Salento plain. Now they’ve launched in London with a bright and airy bistro offering an excellent value lunch menu (£12 for 2 courses) and dinner menu (£22 for three courses, pre-theatre menu). I popped down one weekend to try it out and see if it could ease my Italy pangs, at least temporarily.
Over some excellent, naturally, olives and some delicious prosecco, we perused the menu and took the advice of the friendly and very Italian staff. First up to try, burrata with organic tomatoes and a shard of crouton. You can’t beat burrata really -it’s my latest obsession. It’s like a fresh mozzarella cheese, served whole and with a molten inside. It’s best served simply and when I do it at home, I usually serve it with tomatoes like this. Just perfect.
I also tried their Fave e Spinaci; a rustic broad bean mash with wilted spinach. This was tasty, in a rough and earthy sort of way. I imagine I’d most appreciate it if I was slightly under the weather and needed to bolster myself up with something hearty, deep in iron.
I also tried their Fave e Spinaci; a rustic broad bean mash with wilted spinach. This was tasty, in a rough and earthy sort of way. I imagine I’d most appreciate it if I was slightly under the weather and needed to bolster myself up with something hearty, deep in iron.
Mains continued on that positive note. A whole wheat orecchiette pasta with broccoli, toasted breadcrumbs and melted anchovies (!!!) was clean and utterly toothsome. It managed to be both sumptuous and healthy – that most oxymoronic of combinations – and I enjoyed it. Next was a slow braised lamb shank with potato puree. The lamb was cooked as it should be, falling off the bone, and it was a generous portion. I’d have loved it more if it had come with a good, deep lamb sauce rather than simply the potato.
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The dessert, however, knocked the socks of the rest. Emblematic of the rest of the menu, it was striking in its simplicity and emphatically delicious: pistachio ice cream drizzled in olive oil. Yes, olive oil. If you’d have told me before I would have scoffed, but it was extraordinary. The olive oil was obviously top notch; lemony, pepper rich and luscious, and with the nutty pistachio ice-cream, it just worked. It’s this dish that will draw me back to Li Veli for sure.
The wine pairings were also impressive. The charming staff recommended wines by the glass to go with the food and all proved superb. They included some wines produced by the winery, including a 2013 Verdeca white.
The only area for improvement I could pin point here was an occasional lack of salt which chef needs to watch. Asides from that, I enjoyed Li Veli Winery and Bistro immensely. It’s simple, honest Italian in a bright and friendly setting – for a lunch or casual dinner, what more can you ask for really?
The only area for improvement I could pin point here was an occasional lack of salt which chef needs to watch. Asides from that, I enjoyed Li Veli Winery and Bistro immensely. It’s simple, honest Italian in a bright and friendly setting – for a lunch or casual dinner, what more can you ask for really?
7/10
www.liveli.co.uk/
69 Long Acre, London WC2E 9JS
020 7240 8163
