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Tucked away on a neat little street in Islington, lurks my new favourite hidden London gem. Public House, a boutique restaurant and bar, serving up classic food and somewhat jazzy cocktails with a cheeky little personal touch.

Cheeky? Each cocktail on the menu comes with a short, somewhat cryptic blurb which, after some persuasion, Host Simon revealed references to a piece of Public House’s history. The Boomerang Sour, for example, ‘a pokey tipple that hits you right between the eyes’ which quips about an Australian bartender whose flair failed one evening when he mistakenly hurled a bar blade across the room, smashing the drinks of some unfortunate bystanders. I didn’t ask about the Donkey Club Punch…
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Gin Martini + Stilton
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Meteor Ice
The bar staff are skilled and the cocktail menu is well crafted. Highlights include one of the best gin martinis I have ever supped, paired with Stilton! They had me at gin, but bang on my favourite cheese and introduce to me a great combination I’d never even dreamed of before and….well, I’m metaphorically and probably literally your girl. This effect was only enhanced by the most extensive collection of over proof spirits I’ve seen in a bar.

All Public House had to do was to match their drinks with their food and they had themselves a proverbial panty dropper. Chef Fedja….all eyes on you.

We began with scallops with pea puree and pancetta. Classic combinations made snazzy by serving the scallops atop of big doorstops of thick cut pancetta, so sturdy I mistook them for bread. Dorset snails (apparently fresher than French) with tender stem broccoli and a herbed butter. Next, sea bream, pan fried, skin wafer crisp and salted, swimming in an unusual (and delightful) smoked shrimp sauce. My friend scoffed down perfectly pink Gressingham duck breast with lovely, buttery squash mashed with sunflower seeds for crunch. This alone, paired with a semi-bitter orange chutney and a rich port-y jus, was worth braving the Ginger Line.
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Snails
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Scallops
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Bream
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Duck
Dessert proved an equal treat. Faultless chocolate fondant (scourge of Master Chef contestants) and exquisitely sharp gooseberry, elderflower compote with a lemon pot. Happy, happy days.
I really loved Public House. Exceptionally friendly staff, beautiful mismatched-chic décor and great cocktails. But what about the food? Did it live up to my earlier proverb? Well. Let’s just say I was wearing a very short skirt. The tube home was awkward.

 

Public House, 54 Islington Park St, London, N1 1PX

020 7359 6070

http://www.boutiquepubs.com/