Post by Kate Antoni, FG London Correspondent
El pirata is 25 and celebrating its birthday by launching a “back to 1994” menu, with prices reflecting those at its inception. No quarter life crisis here! The balloons are out, thanks to Bubblegum (who will one day make me a balloon house for which to live…).
The cocktails are plentiful, I had a blackberry margarita which really hit the spot. There’s an emphasis on Spanish wines and gin, with food that’s traditional and moreish. It’s hard not to enjoy the atmosphere as you sit back and enjoy the generous portions and beautifully mixed drinks.
Though the weather was temperamental with glimmers of sunshine that kept teasing us throughout the meal and copious amounts of rain that had drenched me earlier that day, I felt as though I had stepped into a Spanish hideout. The space is traditional- there’s a bar on the right hand side and scattered wooden tables, surrounding a spiral staircase that leads to a cavernous basement seating area. They’re not reinventing the wheel of design and neither do they purport to – it’s homely and kitsch – reliant on food and atmosphere. There are no gimmicks just great croquettes and generous pours.
It was full at lunchtime (always a good sign) with everyone from business men in suits to families enjoying a leisurely meal and friends cracking open a bottle of fizz. The staff is accommodating and friendly, happy to offer recommendations and make suggestions based on your preferences (they picked my cocktail!) The back to 1994 menu transports you to a pre instagram time…when cameras had film and it took Boots seven days to develop photos. No, seriously – I lived this reality. With prices that match the nineties menu, it’s a novel, fun and delicious meal. Even Fred Siriex was spotted having dinner with his lovely partner last week (and where Fred goes to eat, I will graciously follow).
The birthday menu offers tapas plates that range from £2.75 to £5.95 and I sampled most (ok, all) of them. My favourites being the gambas pil pil – prawns served sizzling hot in garlicky olive oil and dried chili – so extremely flavourful that I mopped up the garlic with my bread and greedily ate it. A story that probably didn’t need repeating but when something is so tasty, it must be done even if it is to the chagrin of other diners.
I texted my man friend a photo of the vuelta de carne – medallions of steak in (even more) garlic, red peppers and white wine…the steak was soft and sweet, sticky from the caramelised garlic and perfectly seasoned. I ate an entire portion of this alone…which is reflective only of my hog tendencies and not the portion sizes – it could quite easily have satiated the appetites of two grown men. The chorizo el vino is obviously delicious – because when you’ve had 25 years to perfect greatness, it cannot be improved. I also text a photo of this to the man friend and my dad. Both recipients of said photo were unresponsive and jealous. The calamaris con arroz went really nicely with the wine on offer – the muga blanco is a fantastic choice and at 3.95 for 125ml you seriously cannot go wrong. Reminiscent of a 2009 pouilly-fuisse – the citrus notes combined with a woody and pleasant vanilla undertone made it an extremely drinkable lunchtime wine – refreshing and light but not lacking depth due to its oak finish. Fantastic value and a great advertisement for Spanish produce.
We finished the meal with Creme Catalan, the Spanish take on creme brûlée, creamy and light with a perfectly crisp sugar top.
I stepped out into rainy London having felt as though I’d had a weekend away celebrating a friend’s 25th birthday. Like, with all great friends I won’t leave it that long till I visit again – I promise that.
5-6 Down St, Mayfair, London W1J 7AQ
Website: https://www.elpirata.co.uk/
