Review by Kate Antoni, FG Central Correspondent
Conditions are perfect…
A few weeks ago I was childfree, work free and fancy free. Which left me absolutely delighted. Especially so, because I was able to pop along to Fancy Crab! I invited my parents to try out their brunch menu. I can’t think of anywhere I prefer to spend winter, than in London. This year my crazy travel diary saw me trundling (I am not elegant) off to LA and then to Paris for a romantic jaunt along the Seine. LA LA land was too hot and everyone looked hungry. The general strike in Paris resulted in my walking five km, in wedges, whilst pulling a suitcase. Meanwhile London just sat quietly ignoring Brexit, hanging up Christmas decorations and excelling at public transport, whilst handing out donuts in every flavour. As Larry David would say “what’s not to like?”.
The Setting…
Located in Wigmore Street, and dressed to the nines with beautifully festive garlands and bows, Fancy Crab was looking pretty fancy. I met my parents outside. We stepped into a large space with exposed red brick walls and carefully curated artworks alongside booths and tables. This clever design situates the focal point: a glass fronted open kitchen which looks out onto diners but isn’t an imposition as some truly open kitchens can be.
Comfortable Surroundings…
We were seated in a booth and presented with the menu, which the chef then came over and spoke to us about in detail. This was such a wonderful detail and truly made our experience feel special and personal. He explained that King Crab is caught once a year, with Red King crab being the most commonly eaten (this makes up 90% of the annual harvest). Fun fact, there are around 121 known species and the red king crab has legs that can grow up to 6ft long!
The Food…
My parents are possibly the best and worst plus ones you could imagine. I’ll take that back. Dad is. Actually, man friend wins the title for absolute worst, so much so that he’s been demoted as professional food friend. Yes, vacancies are open. My mother, on the other hand, wants to eat everything and talk to everyone. “Let’s order from every menu and we’ll take care of the excess bill.” Well, if you’re offering mummy. I’ll take it.
Dad started with six Morecambe Bay oysters. Fresh, he said. Almost too fresh – they tasted of the sea. Just like oysters should. Plump and juicy served with tobascco and a shallot vinaigrette. Divine really. Especially topped off with a cold chablis or a chilled glass of champagne. Goodness, I could have eaten 26. We then ordered a selection of items that were shared amongst us. Not because this is necessarily a sharing menu but because we order in restaurants like anthropomorphic bears who drive cars and watch tennis but are still relatively feral.
The Lobster Benedict came to the table, sitting proudly on a puffy English muffin that hid a, perfectly cooked, poached egg. This was doused with lashings of hollandaise and generously topped with tobiko. Though this was a seasonal special, the King Crab Benedict is available and it’s delicious, I know this because we ordered it too and at £13.50 it’s one of the finest sumptuous eggs benny around. Alongside the Benedict fun we ate King crab bon bons – a sophisticated take on a croquette, light and delicate. Completely delicious and perfectly executed with a tomato tomato marmalade that perfectly balances the crispy exterior.
The popcorn squid was one of my favourites – such an easy decadent treat to nibble – without any hint of grease. Lots of flavour was packed into this and the chipotle mayo was a nice touch too. The grilled octopus was soft and beautifully charred atop a chickpea puree and dressed with a salsa and warm balsamic glaze. Whilst I liked this, it wasn’t innovative which didn’t bother me in the slightest – you’ve probably had an incarnation of this dish elsewhere and yet, I don’t think that’s a bad thing. When food is cooked to a high technical standard, not every single dish has to reinvent the wheel.
It can just be a great take on a classic. The Singapore child crab was probably not my personal favourite, it was in my opinion overpowered by the sauce and the crab didn’t shine. I liked it but for £28 I’d recommened more unadulterated seafood fun – a half grilled lobster for example.
The pièce de résistance…
The crème brûlée was for me, the crowning glory to this meal. Served in a wooden box and encapsulated by puffs of dry ice smoke, with faint scents of lavender bouncing off of my face. This dessert was the maxim of perfection. It is up there with one of the best brûlées that I have ever tasted and it showcases the chef’s technical ability in ways which, sadly, don’t lend themselves to the rest of the menu.
Final Thoughts
I really enjoyed Fancy Crab and will return, soon, to try their lunch menu. Two courses for £16.00 or three for £19.00 including a wine, beer or soft drink. I can’t imagine a better way to spend a few hours, mid afternoon.
Fancy Crab 92 Wigmore St, London W1U 3RD TEL: 0203 096 9484
bookings@fancycrab.co.uk
