When I saw that someone had the good sense to take on Leeds’s historic auction house on East Street and turn it into a restaurant, I tittered with excitement to find out what they were going to do. I've always had an affinity with this building, probably because I walk past its derelict façade every day to work and it has a sense of magic to it. Through its murky windows I could see that high Victorian ceilings gave way to a stunning glass apex above, shooting beams of light through the dusty air – so much potential.
After much anticipation, Iberica opened its 10th tapas restaurant in the UK in April. I supposed that given my long built up wait, I was going to be let down. My expectations would be too high and another chain restaurant would come in and restore a wonderful building with carbon copy branding and monotonous design. Well….not quite.
Iberica is the most striking restaurant in Leeds, and perhaps farther afield. You enter through an old limestone archway adorned with beautiful carving and beautifully tiled steps. The dark wood panelled foyer is jaw-droppingly exquisite and the blue main room is drenched in natural light from the glass roof. Distressed oak wood clads the floor and Victorian hanging lampshades emit a warm glow. On the walls, more Victorian portraits hang (which I understand were rescued from the cellars of the former auction house). The far end of the room has steps up to a large, bright kitchen. This is surely the most grandiose spot in Leeds.
Never would I normally delve so much into the design of a building but it is warranted in this case. Now…the food. I was invited to a private dining room to try dishes from the new summer menu and after looking at onslaught of dishes to come, I’m glad I went famished.
We started with 3 meats from the charcuterie board. Each were individually wonderful, but much like goldilocks, I found one that was just right – the iberica ham. These little piggies are aged for 28-36 months and the meat is hand cut (none of this rubbish electric shaving). Worth every penny.
We sampled two bread dishes, a tomato bread and asparagus rarebit. The tomato bread is simple yet so moreish, I could eat it all day long. Its tomatoes couldn’t be farther removed from those bought in an English supermarket and were seasoned perfectly. I know it’s only tomato on toast but seriously probably the best you’ll have.
Next the Gruyere melted sourdough with grilled asparagus and truffle oil. Again it was simple but the quality of the produce makes the basic truly memorable.
My favourite dish of the evening was raspberry gazpacho, a creation of triple Michelin star toting chef Quique Dacosta. It is possibly the most interesting dish I have had in the last 12 months; light yet rich, sweet but still savoury. I can’t encourage you to try a dish more than this one. Baffling and marvellous.
Sous vide hake followed, softer than I would ever want a fish to be, but flavoured wonderfully with a rich hollandaise. Grilled octopus with smashed garlic potatoes was robust and pleasing; you’d struggle to find better cooked octopus. Some giant meatballs followed, which were fine but by that point my stomach and I were at breaking point.
An after dinner aperitif helped such glorious amounts of food settle, we marched onto puds; Churros, cheesecake and traditional rice pudding. The churros were nothing special, the rice pudding homely and satisfying, but the cheesecake, oh my. It is rare that one can get so enthused about a basic cheese/ sugar blend, but this was special. I’d even sacrifice a beloved cheeseboard in favour of this.
It is sadly true that oft anticipation exceeds realisation. I am glad that Iberica hasn’t fallen foul of this idiom. Yes it may be on the steep side of pricing but the amount of thought, effort and beauty designed into both the menu and the surroundings permits the price tag, at least for a special occasion. Steer away from the menu's more usual tapas classics and plough into the more interesting items. Hopefully like me you’ll depart with the smile of pure satisfaction that only good food and drink can plaster on your face.
www.ibericarestaurants.com/restaurants/iberica-leeds/
Hepper House,
17a East Parade,
LS1 2BH
Leeds
Written by Erin Goodall, FoodGoblin Northern Correspondent
