As you may have read from my previous post, I spent a most leisurely Saturday at the Royal York hotel; taking in my lavish surroundings whilst knocking back the Moet and gorging on macaroons and petit fours. Yes, I certainly peaked that Saturday afternoon. After I had managed to fill some space in my belly I pottered to the hotel’s main restaurant, The Refectory, for an evening of great wine and hearty dinner.
The newly refurbed Refectory looks like a modern Nordic-style conservatory come greenhouse. Exposed light bulbs dangle on ropes from the ceiling coating the room with a buttery glow. The menu is simple and lets individual ingredients shine. Too often menus get bogged down in the buzz words of today: “artisanal”, “hand-glazed”, “de-constructed”, and “hand-selected”. Vom. These phrases are usually meaningless, used out of context and irrelevant. Another buzz word that establishments LOVE is “locally sourced”, however for me this phrase reeks not of self-importance but of utmost necessity. The first thing I want to know that the food I am eating has not nomadically travelled any farther than it need to, and the second that local farmers are profiting as they should. In the capital of God’s own country, I was happy to see produce from Yorkshire featured heavily on the menu.
This leads me to the menu – Nidderdale lamb, Whitby crab, and steaks from Waterford Farm (a few miles away). There has been a discernible effort to use the best of Yorkshire’s produce here where possible (save for the butter which is from Gurnsey!). The wine list is extensive and the staff knowledgeable to help guide you through it.
We kicked off with the smoked salmon and the fried squid. The salmon was soft, lightly smoked and came with avocado and a heap of wholemeal toast. A delicate smoky flavour tickled the fish, but I would suggest the bread be swapped for lighter melba toast. The squid was fresh and delicate.
For mains it was all about the MEAT. I ordered the whole roast chicken with salad and fries and my companion the rib-eye steak. My chicken was wonderful; tender flesh and light crispy skin…food that warms the soul. The chips were nice enough, but not worth shouting about. I’d prefer chunky, fat, triple cooked slabs of potato, but I appreciate this is more personal preference. Now onto, what I can honestly say, was one of the best rib-eyes I’ve had the pleasure of tasting. The quality of meat was outstanding and was cooked medium rare to perfection. Remembering the caramelised outer of this honk of steak has me literally drooling. Although one of the more expensive items, I implore you to indulge.
I held my hands up in defeat. Although the selection of deserts looked fantastic, I could not face it after my afternoon of cakes, teas and sarnies followed by dinner.
To sum up my dinner; The Refectory at The Royal York Hotel is a solid eatery offering traditional Yorkshire, cockle warming fare. Sure it doesn’t push the boat out too far into the seas of experimental chefery, but it does what it does confidently and well. If you want quality food in beautiful surroundings in York, The Royal York Hotel should certainly be on the list for you.
Royal York Hotel
Station Rd,
York,
North Yorkshire
YO24 1AA
01904 653681
http://www.hotelroyalyork.co.uk/
Written by Erin Goodall, FoodGoblin Northern Correspondent
