Piece by Vik Chauhan, Food Goblin Central Correspondent
Recently I was fortunate enough to wangle a seat at The Water House Project, recently relocated to Hackney, and upon entering I was blown away by the set up before even delving into any of the food. I was greeted with a refreshing mix of white port, mint and tonic and while checking out the rows of classically dressed trestle tables while the sun bounced off the canal just outside the venue, I knew I was in for a treat.
Gabe Waterhouse has taken Bert & May’s tile showroom and converted it into the ideal location for a supper club, with 7 courses on offer, each as delectable as the other from the very start. The smell of sourdough fills the room, as it is freshly baked in ovens in front of all the diners. This is paired with an awesome whipped oak smoked butter and presented on a stone.
Presentation is just as important as taste when it comes to Gabe’s dishes, and this could be seen in the golden beetroot salad with whipped goats curd and caramelized walnuts. The food has all the feels of a Michelin starred restaurant, yet with the intimacy of a supper club as it is plated up in front of guests.
A little cup is then delivered to all the guests. A cup of fresh, clear tomato consomme with a basil oil with crazy depth of flavour. This isn’t shown on the menu however is the perfect little interlude before the fish course; Lemon cured and smoked sea trout, dill crème fraiche and salted cucumber. Just the right mouthful, fresh and light.
Each dish showcases invention and a unique sense of thought. Nothing is a filler. Each dish has its own belonging. The crisp, sweet lamb pastilla is also just that. Braised for 3 hours and served with fig chutney, aubergine puree and preserved lemon – my only complaint would be that there wasn’t enough of it.
A pre-dessert dessert is then served up. Cherries, pitted, poached in port and served with their juice, vanilla Chantilly and pistachio croquant. You can hear every spoon scraping a bowl as all the diners are blown away yet again.
All the while, music is playing and there is a sense of calm and a social element which you wouldn't have at a fine dining restaurant, yet exists here on the bank of the canal in Hackney. Chilled Valrhona chocolate fondant, white wine soaked raisins, banana and yoghurt ice cream is the dessert. The fondant is rich, chocolatey, everything you want from a dessert and the banana ice cream cuts through it perfectly. Devoured.
Gabe’s take on a cheese course is another special touch. No cheese board. No selection of cheeses on offer. Instead a combination of cheese and a sorbet. Barkham blue, golden cross, rye cracker and pear sorbet. Conference pears taken when they’re really ripe, blended with their skin on. Sweet sorbet, salty cheese – a great combination. The petit fours are the final element of invention. Amaretto wine gums, chocolate and thyme truffles.
Gabe’s take on the supper club is something exceptional. The location, table setting, inventiveness of food and his personal approach set it in a completely different bracket to your regular restaurant dining. It is a must for any foodie out there and I can only hope it won’t be my last visit.
