San Miguel de Allende, a little town in Central Mexico, North East of Mexico City, sprawls in shades of terracotta across the Mexican basin, mountains winking on the skyline. Until now this picturesque hideaway has been largely undiscovered by the European holiday market. We tend to stick to the likes of better known Cabo san Lucas, Tijuana or Cancun, rarely venturing inwards away from the coast. The opposite can be said to local Mexicans, who flock to this quaint and hilly town to enjoy its historic centre and extraordinary cuisine.
I visited San Miguel recently and discovered why it has become such a popular destination for those in the know. The central metropolis, now a World Heritage Site for its outstanding beauty, is laid out in an orderly grid format, punctuated with so many Spanish colonial monuments or examples of baroque and neo-classical architecture that wandering around these streets is the stuff of several diverting afternoons – although a tram tour is available that simmers this down to only a few hours.
I visited San Miguel recently and discovered why it has become such a popular destination for those in the know. The central metropolis, now a World Heritage Site for its outstanding beauty, is laid out in an orderly grid format, punctuated with so many Spanish colonial monuments or examples of baroque and neo-classical architecture that wandering around these streets is the stuff of several diverting afternoons – although a tram tour is available that simmers this down to only a few hours.
| Begin in the centre with La Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel, the fairy-tale 17th century church of San Miguel that towers in neo-gothic splendour over the town and is considered one of the most impressive works of architecture in Mexico.  San Francisco de Asis Church |  La Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel Wander around the corner to find the San Francisco de Asis Church, originally run by Franciscan monks and fronted by a shady piazza and fountains. Musicians frequent this square and each time I visited a different mariachi band was there entertaining the locals. For those with frequent appetites, admire this view from the San Augustin Chocolates and Churros shop opposite which serves the best churros in town. |
 Machinery at La Aurora Factory | In addition to San Miguel’s rich history, its modern art scene has been thriving since the 50s when artists first began flooding to this sleepy town. Who knows why they first came, but now the city plays host to 2 major art schools and several exhibition centres – my favourite being the La Aurora Factory, an old converted textile factory playing host to a number of quirky galleries in and around the old machinery. Art has become so innate to San Miguel that several art hotels have even opened, with their own mini galleries and luxury guest rooms. The Hotel Matilda stands as a notable example with funky pieces by Ringo Star and Yoko Ono adorning the foyer, and other works by famous artists Bosco Sodi, Javier Marin and Spencer Tunick sprinkled around. |
The hotel’s restaurant, Moxi, held my favourite item; a solid gold chandelier reflecting yellow light around the room. The restaurant itself is one of the best in San Miguel de Allende and its chef, Enrique Olvera, was named recently as one of the ’10 most promising figures in world cuisine’.
If you’re staying longer than a few days, it’s worth heading down to the Ventanas Golf Course. For golfers, it’s the only one in South America designed by Nick Faldo. For non-golfers, the views over the surrounding mountains are striking and a club house is just being built that’ll make admiring them over a few G&Ts , whilst the other half plays, into a relaxing few hours. |  Ventanas Golf Course |
As far as accommodation goes, San Miguel has some truly wonderful places to stay. For grandeur, head to the new Rosewood Hotel. This large, deluxe hotel has been built in traditional hacienda style from local materials. From the traditional stone tiling, cool wood panelled floors and, of course, more local art, this beautiful hotel, foundation to décor, is extremely personal to San Miguel. The rooms are sizable and luxurious – think carved wooden beds, stone bathtubs, wood fires and terracotta balconies – and the spa and gym are world class.
 Courtyard, Rosewood Hotel | The Rosewood hotel even has its own underground art gallery and wine cellar, La Cava, which can be used as a private dining room for very special events. Despite all these extravagances, the Rosewood remains accessible and friendly – they loan out their land once a week for free to a local farmers market and anything you ask for, the staff are happy to provide (even lending me a complimentary gym kit, when I forgot mine!). It’s service and amenities of this level that have made the Rosewood San Miguel’s number 1 wedding destination! |
 Suite room at Rosewood Hotel |  Reception living room, Rosewood Hotel |
| For a more intimate experience, try bed and breakfast Casa de la Cuesta. Its owners built this secret little haven from scratch in the 1990s. It looks like nothing from the street, but sprawls back from the street over several layers of open air courtyards, with stunning views of the San Miguel skyline. Be aware that there are no televisions or wifi, but the place is packed full of books and even has its own museum of masks and Mexican folklore. |  Views of San Miguel from Casa de la Cuesta |
 Courtyard at La Felguera | As gastronomy goes, the town is packed with restaurants serving fabulous and authentic Mexican fare. Try La Felguera for a romantic courtyard dinner, with its overhanging balconies and ivy woven walls. The bean and pork skin soup is especially delicious, as is the cactus salad. Luna Rooftop Tapas Bar on top of the Rosewood offers the best views of the city and is a great spot to come for sunset cocktails (as well the most delicious carnitas tacos). For day time grazing, come to the farmers market that runs on Saturdays on the Rosewood grounds– the produce is incredibly fresh and wandering the stalls, nibbling as you go, makes for a great lunch. |
| There’s so much to do and see in this little town. Its old colonial streets and courtyards beam tranquillity and the booming gastronomy and art scenes are quickly making San Miguel de Allende a hot destination for Mexicans and Americans. It was with aching heart, fond memories and deep seated relaxation that I left San Miguel, waving ‘adiós’ to its terracotta landscape and bemused locals. I imagine it won’t be long until its streets find me wandering there once more. |  Views from Luna Rooftop Tapas Bar, Rosewood Hotel |
Aeromexico flies 3 times a week from Heathrow to Mexico City, from where it’s a 3 hour drive to reach San Miguel de Allende.
http://www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/san-miguel-de-allende
http://www.fabricalaaurora.com
http://www.hotelmatilda.com/
http://moxi.com.mx/
http://ventanasdesanmiguel.net/
http://www.casadelacuesta.com/
http://www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/san-miguel-de-allende
http://www.fabricalaaurora.com
http://www.hotelmatilda.com/
http://moxi.com.mx/
http://ventanasdesanmiguel.net/
http://www.casadelacuesta.com/
