Supper clubs are a movement I support whole heartedly. I love the idea that chefs or amateurs alike have a newly trendy medium by which to express themselves, freed of the shackles of a permanent restaurant site and the bounds perhaps set by investors. They allow some truly niche concepts to gain a popularity that wouldn’t be possible otherwise. I’ve come across Game of Thrones themed supper clubs, for example, and crazy medical themed ones. From the sublime to the ridiculous, I’ve seen it all and much of what I have seen I have loved.
Recently I went down to a supper club sponsored by Woodford Reserve Bourbon up near Islington called Smoke and Salt. This club is run by two professional chefs Aaron Webster from Heston Blumenthal’s Dinner, and Remi Williams from Deauxave in Boston. With a combined restaurant experience of 10 years, they decided to step out from behind the Michelin passes and try their hand at their own ideas and so Smoke and Salt was born.
Recently I went down to a supper club sponsored by Woodford Reserve Bourbon up near Islington called Smoke and Salt. This club is run by two professional chefs Aaron Webster from Heston Blumenthal’s Dinner, and Remi Williams from Deauxave in Boston. With a combined restaurant experience of 10 years, they decided to step out from behind the Michelin passes and try their hand at their own ideas and so Smoke and Salt was born.
I headed down to their ‘Best of the Butcher’s Block’ dinner, set in lovely Japanese restaurant Kuriya Keiko. This event was right up my street. Firstly, Woodford Reserve was involved. Those of you who follow FoodGoblin regularly will be aware of my penchant for whisky and dear love of Old Fashioneds. Woodford Reserve’s Brand Ambassador had been in to train the guys in how to make the perfect Old Fashioned too. Secondly and simply put; I love offal. The name ‘Best of the Butcher’s Block’ was meant ironically – the entire menu was based around offcuts of meat and fish, commonly disregarded for more expensive parts. All things considered, quite my cup of tea!
The evening opened with some ‘table treats’ of pickled artichokes, crisp little croquettes and some disgraceful little portions of bone marrow butter (Jesus) with brioche because, well, more butter is always better. The starter was a deep and flavoursome broth of beef with slices of tongue, sautéed heart and irony spring greens. On the side was a sous vide cooked hen’s egg to be cracked into the broth, enriching it with unctuous yolk. This was very special. The tongue was perfectly moist and the heart would have passed for thin strips of medium rare steak, should you be squeamish that way. I wish I had the recipe for this so I could cook it every night (Boys, if you’re reading hook me up!).
Next came soft, buttery cod’s cheeks with good quality chorizo and a zingy warm salad of green apple sticks and rapini, a green vegetable in the broccoli family. The thought of apple with chorizo had struck terror into my heart but it actually worked well.
The show stopper of the evening, at least visually (I’m still in love with the beef broth starter), was their dessert of ‘Rhubarb’. This plate of pink rectangles of rhubarb (sous vide in sugar syrup, I’m guessing), soft little buttermilk biscuit pillows, camomile gel, honey ice cream and a shard of sugary, desiccated fennel was a study in vibrant shades and scents. I thought it was delicious. The buttermilk biscuit was that kind of gooey, yielding deliciousness that makes me subside into groans and the rhubarb made me thank heaven for forced rhubarb season!
Finally I got my Old Fashioned too. Was it good? You bet your ass it was. When I used to bar tend for the Hotel du Vin group Woodford Reserve was my staple pour for them and the training the ambassador had given Smoke and Salt had obviously done the trick.
In summary; Smoke and Salt confirmed what it is I love about Supper Clubs. Great food, exciting food served in a less stuffy setting and considerately priced. Check these guys out.
In summary; Smoke and Salt confirmed what it is I love about Supper Clubs. Great food, exciting food served in a less stuffy setting and considerately priced. Check these guys out.
Smoke and Salt run regular supper clubs, usually in the Islington area, priced around £30. Check their site for availability http://www.smokeandsalt.com/, or keep an eye on Grub Club http://grubclub.com/smoke-and-salt/.
www.woodfordreserve.com
