The Phene has been an icon of Chelsea for years. Armed with a reputation for all things trendy and for quality of food, drinks and service, as well as being armed with bouncers on the door for dinner service (!), it sits on an unassuming tree lined residential type street, just off Kings road. Having heard about it repeatedly – and from sources other than Made in Chelsea within which it has featured more than once – I was intrigued to attend, to dine and to see just what all the fuss was about. A friend secured the reservation and off I went, hungry and ready to chow down.
The aforementioned bouncer on the door (and certainly he was too muscled and hulking to be mistaken simply for a polite doorman) was peculiar, in my view. Who was The Phene trying to keep out? Perhaps me, I worried to myself in the final metres of strut to the door, immediately regretting coming straight from work and with Indian, fraying gym bag in tow and attempting to fix a ‘cool’ expression on my face. Admittedly, it did lend the place an air of the exclusive but I’m not sure that this was entirely pleasant. On entry (obviously my ‘cool’ expression prevailed) this impression was simultaneously confirmed and nullified. The interior is warm, inviting and with only the most meagre smidgem of pretentiousness. Drinkers and diners mingle in a small bar room where the décor and ambience mingle juxtaposing vibes of my local village pub with that of my local Clapham mixology lounge. Comfortable, cosy, unaffected luxury.
The aforementioned bouncer on the door (and certainly he was too muscled and hulking to be mistaken simply for a polite doorman) was peculiar, in my view. Who was The Phene trying to keep out? Perhaps me, I worried to myself in the final metres of strut to the door, immediately regretting coming straight from work and with Indian, fraying gym bag in tow and attempting to fix a ‘cool’ expression on my face. Admittedly, it did lend the place an air of the exclusive but I’m not sure that this was entirely pleasant. On entry (obviously my ‘cool’ expression prevailed) this impression was simultaneously confirmed and nullified. The interior is warm, inviting and with only the most meagre smidgem of pretentiousness. Drinkers and diners mingle in a small bar room where the décor and ambience mingle juxtaposing vibes of my local village pub with that of my local Clapham mixology lounge. Comfortable, cosy, unaffected luxury.
The wine list was moderate – made up with bottles from about 20 pounds up and from a variety of different countries and regions. I do hate it when restaurants attempt to take a ‘wine stance’ and to impose it on their diners – oh…this is awkward, we only drink old world here. Acceptable only in authentic national restaurants promoting their own country’s wines, e.g. Italian, and, even then, only barely. None of that here – a fully stocked and accessible list, made flirty with a fair sized and decent cocktail menu. So far, so bon.
Food wise? Reasonably priced fair – modern European in genre, I’d call it. To start; a foie gras and smoked chicken terrine with a spiced onion marmalade. The marmalade was the highlight for me – tangy, sweet, unctuous and rich. This is not to scold the terrine – it was great – but the chutney/marmalade thing was special.
Food wise? Reasonably priced fair – modern European in genre, I’d call it. To start; a foie gras and smoked chicken terrine with a spiced onion marmalade. The marmalade was the highlight for me – tangy, sweet, unctuous and rich. This is not to scold the terrine – it was great – but the chutney/marmalade thing was special.
Beef Carpaccio with Quails Egg
Main; rack of lamb with a butternut squash and celeriac dauphinoise, parsnips and a yummy garlicy, red wine jus. Again – very good, simple and tasty. The lamb was cooked almost perfectly – maybe 30 seconds over for me, but good, very good.
In essence The Phene dishes up to its comfortable, quality conscious patrons, food and drinks that are simple, fairly modern and done well. It was hard to pick massive fault really. Everything I ate was…. good. It lies within the upper curve, of ‘pub dining’, if that is really what The Phene can be described as. I would return again, probably in winter, probably seeking red wine, red meat and something stodgy and sweet for dessert.
Cost: 40 GBP a head, including wine
http://www.thephene.com/
9 Phene Street London SW3 5NY
020 7352 9898
Rating
Overall: 3/5
Food: 3/5
Wine List: 3/5
Venue: 3/5
Atmosphere: 3/5
Cost: 40 GBP a head, including wine
http://www.thephene.com/
9 Phene Street London SW3 5NY
020 7352 9898
Rating
Overall: 3/5
Food: 3/5
Wine List: 3/5
Venue: 3/5
Atmosphere: 3/5
Thank very much for helping me.