Having been blown away by Summer in the Italian Dolomites last October (see post ), I couldn’t get the thought of seeing it in its winter coat out of my head. And so, barely 2 months after hiking up the side of its lush, green valleys I was back, this time surrounded by pristine, white snow and ready to ski!
The ski season lasts from December through to April and there are 500km of slopes available, to suit all abilities. Thanks to technology, snow is guaranteed in this period, as 98% of the slopes can be covered in artificial snow, if Mother Nature isn’t kind. It’s also home to the world’s largest ski carousel and the yearly venue for one of the downhill races in the international Ski World Cup.
There’s the choice of 3 different villages to stay in: Ortisei (1,236m), S. Christina (1,428m) and Selva Gardena (1,563m). Each is as charming as the other and all nestle in the shade of the Sassolungo mountain, which I like to think of as the ancient guardian of Val Gardena!
I’ve stayed in Ortisei the last two times I visited Val Gardena and so can whole heartedly recommend it. It’s a cute, twee little village full of colourful houses, shops and eateries. The region is big on art and there are always installations sprinkled around the public spaces. For the winter, I was delighted by towering frozen fountains installed around the river running through Ortisei, as well as some carved ice sculptures in the town centre.
The Ski
Most of my skiing has been in France in the past, and this was my first time skiing in Italy so wasn’t sure what to expect. I was pleasantly surprised. The lift network was extensive and modern, with ski slots galore and spacious gondolas. The pistes were well maintained, without being as bulldozed flat as you tend to get in some parts of the French Alps. There was plenty of variety too – lots of long, wide blues, and more challenging slopes for when I fancied a bit of a burn too – and so I never felt bored at any point. Food was super reasonable to compared to France, which was another good perk.
The views are really what makes Val Gardena special however – it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its incredible beauty and is the sort of place which repeatedly takes your breath away every time you look at it. It’s almost hard to concentrate on your skiing when every direction you look in has such splendour.
Day one took us up around the Piz Sella, a stunning range with some of the most insane views in the area and including the Saslong piste, where the downhill race takes place! In the afternoon we followed the sun and switched to Col Raiser/ Seceda area which is a must visit. The Seceda mountain towers at 2500m above sea level, and you feel like you’ve conquered the Dolomites when you reach its viewing point.
On Day two, we upped the anti and set off on an epic ski circuit, called the Sellaronda. It’s probably the most famous run of the region, and it spans a massive 26km across 4 different valleys – Val Gardena, Alta Badia, Arabba and Fassa – giving you an amazing insight into the area all in one go. If you, like me, like a leisurely ski then take a full day to do the route and sprinkle it with lots of pit stops. Once you’ve started the route, you can’t stop or get back very easily and so only attempt it if you’ve got an okay level of fitness.
You can take it clockwise or anticlockwise, and during the route you pass through all the different shades of Dolomite skiing that there is: sky high peaks, thick forests and fluffy white hills. There are lots of lifts involved and plenty of mountain huts to stop, refresh and take photos. The runs are a mix, but you can get around it on reds pretty easily.
In short -the skiing in Val Gardena is unbelievable and I can’t believe I only just discovered it. Lots of variety, amazing views and guaranteed snow? What could be better.
Where to Stay?
There are plenty of hotels or rental apartments around the three villages. I had the absolute pleasure of staying in the luxurious Hotel Alpin Garden Wellness Resort in Ortisei. This dreamy 5* resort has stylish rooms, an extensive spa and lovely fine dining restaurant and you can stay here (depending on the time in the season) for around £250 for a double room, including breakfast.
Food there was fabulous too! We ate very well indeed there on two nights and on both evenings there was a totally different, fine european dining menu.
A final nice perk which I’ll mention is their ski rental drop off service. You can leave any rental gear in your private ski locker at the end of your stay and its collected for you, saving you the dreaded slog down to the rental shop at the end of your trip!
Other Activities
Apart from the ski and enjoying the spa facilities, there’s also plenty of other things to enjoy in the area. There is winter hiking, snowshoeing and ice climbing aplenty, or you can rent a toboggan and plummet down the toboggan runs. The longest toboggan run in the Dolomites is in Val Gardena, spanning 6km and 8 terrifying minutes!
I also enjoyed a night time torchlit walk at Monte Pana, led by a local guide and artist who taught me about the area’s history. This was terribly romantic and made me feel like an intrepid explorer!
Food and Drink
Food in this region is a real treat and certainly matches up to the splendour of its natural beauty. Val Gardena is obviously in Italy, but sits close to the borders of Austria and Switzerland and has plenty of influences from there. These influences result in a unique identity and culture which is neither Italian, nor anything other country’s and is peculiar to this exact region. This is reflected in the fact that it has its own language, Ladin, but also, joyfully, in its food.
There is plenty of pasta of course, often served with game ragus, but also a thriving culture of various dumplings! Cured meats are also integral and you can always rely on a top notch charcuterie board. Schnitzel graces most menus too, as do stews. You’re guaranteed a hearty meal and the local wine is also well worth a tipple or two.
Don’t expect a heavily ‘apres’ culture here. It’s certainly got a few lively spots for a drink after a day on the slopes, but its not a party town in the same way as Saalbach in Austria or the Three Valleys in France. If you’re looking for a good time, you’ll find it, but not surrounded by coach loads of students downing pints.
In short…
Val Gardena impressed me in the summer, but blew me away in the winter. The skiing was absolutely fantastic and I will always remember the Sellaronda circuit as one of my favourite days skiing ever. It’s ideal for families, couples or groups of friends of all ages and abilities. The villages themselves are cute also, with luxurious spas and all varieties of restaurants for the evenings. Val Gardena, I can’t wait to see you again next season!
